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On February 19, 2013, I am moving to Argentina. This will not negatively impact the blog.
In July, my law school buddy called me while I was in Hawaii. He told me that when his Judge Advocate General (JAG) commitment ended at the end of the year, he was moving to Buenos Aires.
That sounded like a heck of a plan. For the last nine years–since I first left North America–I’ve wanted to live abroad at some point. “At some point” often doesn’t happen, and I know it’s less likely to happen as I get older and have more responsibilities. And Buenos Aires is one of my four favorite cities, along with Lima, Stockholm, and Madrid.
Another one of my goals is to become completely fluent in Spanish. I’m close to fluency, and I’m sure several months living in Buenos Aires will get me there. (For Spanish nerds, my accent is Peruvian/Spainish. I don’t plan to emulate Argentine “y/ll” sounds, so I won’t ever be confused for an Argentine. But as long as the person I’m speaking with guesses that I am from another Spanish-speaking country and not the US, I’ll consider it a win.)
So my buddy’s call was the perfect chance to say, “I’m moving to Buenos Aires too!” I took a look at my upcoming calendar–literally the Meet Up page because it’s the easiest place for me to check–and I saw I was booked through the middle of February with my trip to Australia/New Zealand and hosting my brother in Los Angeles on the free oneway he added to his Australia return.
As soon as he leaves, I’m leaving. I’m moving out of my apartment December 31. In the 50 days between then and Argentina, I’ll be traveling 34. The other 16, I’m sure I’ll bum a couch with friends.
How will this affect the blog?
Positively. By moving my location five time zones east, I’ll be much more aligned with the news cycle, so I can more easily bring you breaking news. Currently I’m waking up at noon PT/ 3 PM ET. If I wake up at noon in Argentina, that’s 10 AM ET.
Generally my commitment to the blog and the Award Booking Service will stay the same (or increase). I plan to continue with the daily, original content.
Can you help me out?
I’m very interested in anyone’s experiences with moving out of the country, ditching all their stuff, being an expat, being an expat in Argentina, Argentina currency issues, and anything else I’m not thinking about.
Right now my plan is to pack what I can into about four bags that I will fly to Buenos Aires with. Everything else I plan to give away or sell. For anyone who has dramatically slashed their possessions:
- What is something I think I need that I really don’t?
- What’s something I think I don’t need that I really do?
- Any methods of selling or giving away to consider besides Salvation Army, craigslist, and friends?
- Any other advice or something to think about that I’m not thinking about?
I’m planning to live in Buenos Aires for 5-6 months.
- Where in Buenos Aires would you choose to live and why? Where would you choose to live if you had my preferences: nice parks and streets for walks, nice bar (not club) scene, good public transportation access?
- How would you go about getting a short term, furnished rental?
I want to make friends with locals and expats alike.
- If you’ve ever been an expat, how did you tap into the local expat community?
I know that inflation is galloping. Last time I was in Argentina, I went to Uruguay for a week, and the price at Ugi’s pizza had increased 15% when I got back. I know that I don’t want dollars or pesos in the Argentine financial system.
I’ve got my dollars in American bank accounts.
- How can I have access to my dollars while in Argentina without putting them in an Argentine bank? If anyone has experience with this, it’s my main worry.
- Any tips for navigating the financial system there are much appreciated.
During my South American stay, I would love to see Patagonia and Colombia. (I’m very excited about using US Airways miles in South America–30k roundtrip biz from Argentina to Colombia!)
I’ve been to all the Spanish speaking South American countries before except Chile, Colombia, Paraguay, and Venezuela. I would not be opposed to getting a Paraguayan visa, but I will not be going to Brazil on this trip. I have bigger Brazilian plans for 2014.
- What trips would you take from a Buenos Aires base? I am specifically interested in suggestions within Argentina, since I’ve only been to BsAs and Puerto Iguazu.
Thanks if you can answer any of my questions, or you can answer better questions that I haven’t asked. I think living in Buenos Aires for half a year will be an amazing chance to immerse myself in a new culture, perfect a second language, make new friends, and broaden my horizons. I couldn’t be more excited.
Bonus
I’m flying down on American Airlines Flagship First. I booked the award a few months ago. An Anatomy of an Award post is forthcoming. The award is oneway.
I’m considering leaving Argentina on the direct flight to Johannesburg on flat bed South African Airways business class. I’ve got a few tricks I want to try out with US Airways miles.
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AWESOME!
I have no advice as I’ve never been an expat, but your plan sounds fantastic.
Anita
This is very exciting! I’m glad I will be meeting you in Los Angeles before you head out.
One small thing that I always do when I travel to 3rd world countries is bring a few little things for kids… stuff from the Dollar store that’s hard to come by otherwise… crazy socks, colored pencil sets, little notepads, glow sticks… that kind of thing. It’s very expensive to purchase these things for the parents, and you will endear yourself to any parent/child that you meet with such a token.
Congratulations, you will never regret making the move.
I’m Australian but been an expat my entire adult life having lived in 7 different countries. Things I would suggest, try not to get all your friends in the expat community, especially the expat community of your home country. It stretches you further and makes you try harder when you aren’t talking about common experiences at home. I think the key to making friendships as an expat is never be afraid to make the first move to invite someone to do something. If you hear an accent at a cafe don’t be afraid to introduce yourself. Have you checked Meetup.com to see what is happening? Follow thru on every invitation until your schedule becomes one that you just don’t have time.
We recently downsized all our belonging in preparation to depart the US. We sold our household contents to our landlady and just gave away the rest. Our intent when we leave San Diego at the end of February is to have 2 suitcases of clothing and that will be eat. In the months since we got rid of all the “stuff” we have not missed it one bit.
As to the money side of it, wherever we go we just suck the money out of a hole in the wall using an ATM card. Given the state of the Argentinian economy I would hesitate to transfer any money into the system.
Good luck, it all sounds rather exciting to me.
Congrats on the pending move. I sold my stuff and left NYC to go to Buenos Aires myself. 🙂 I’ve been here since August 2008 and have the DiscoverBuenosAires.com blog that I write.
I’d be happy to give you a ton of tips and advice. The biggest one – bring US dollars. You pretty much should not use any credit cards or ATM cards here as you’ll get the official rate of $4.80 to one. The blue market rate is currently about $6.20 to one. You can also use the Xoom money transfer service to send money to yourself at a better rate.
A backup plan is to open a Charles Schwab checking account as they have no foreign transaction fees and refund all ATM fees. And don’t worry about an Argentine banking account – you won;t be able to get one anyhow.
Trips to make from here: El Calafate, Ushuaia, Bariloche, Mendoza, Salta and many more.
The points and mile earning opportunities are a lot fewer down here. No Vanilla reload cards. 🙂
Would love to meet up for a drink when you get here.
Thank you for the ATM advice. I thought that there was a divergence from the official rate. I can of course bring down some dollars, but not enough for a 6 month stay. Can you elaborate on how to get access to more of my dollars from BsAs, so that I can exchange them at the real rate? You can, of course, email me if the information is sensitive. I’ll definitely take you up on that drink.
Bring as much cash as you can. It’s simplest and will give you the best rate. The next best option is using Xoom as needed. I have a few posts about it on my blog, including this one http://www.discoverbuenosaires.com/xoom-money-transfer-argentina-better-blue-rate
As far as living, I’d recommend Palermo Soho and Palermo Hollywood. They’re great neighborhoods (though also some of the more expensive). A lot of people recommend Recoleta, but while nice, I’d definitely prefer Palermo.
Congrats on the move! I’ve never lived abroad, but it sounds awesome! For your money, the easiest thing to do is open up a Charles Schwab investor checking account. It’s completely free, and it gives you an ATM card to use at any ATM in the whole world, fee-free! At the end of each month, you are reimbursed for every ATM fee you were charged from any bank or even those awful convenience store ATMs. I’ve used mine without any issue whatsoever in Fiji, Indonesia, Thailand, etc. It’s the best! And you can move money from your current bank account into the Schwab account as necessary (but know that transferring funds takes 3-4 days). There’s no minimum amount you need in the account, and you just pull out money at the ATM exchange rate, which is often the best possible. Hope that helps! Feel free to email if you have questions.
http://www.discoverbuenosaires.com/send-money-argentina
That might be of some help to you.
Wishing you the best
Congrats on the move! I was in Argentina for about two months back in 2006 and I loved it. I stayed in a rented apartment in Palermo (the corner of Thames y Guemes off the Plaza Italia) which was great for public transportation and parks. Usually had to go somewhere else for good bars and restaurants, though that may have changed.
Ushuaia and El Calafate are great side trips.
Wow! What are you going to do down there? Full time blogging? Can you play your poker down there?
Here is a blog written by an Irish expat: http://paddyinba.blogspot.com/
He is now living in the US, but there seems to be lots of content that you might find useful, from his time in SA and BA.
I’d visit the penguin colony in Punta Tombo – and explore the Welsh area near there. Ushuaia is a must – but very wary of serious sunburn. Steer clear of expats unless you settle down permanently.
Congrats – exciting move. To meet people: 1) if you run, join the local hash house harrier group; 2) couch surfing meet ups – you’d be surprised how many locals and expats go to them. Neighborhoods to live in? Palermo Hollywood is nice.
Make sure you make it to Juana M. In recoletta. Cheers.
Congrats! I would suggest looking into into Fidelity’s checking product. They refund all of your ATM fees. I used the card when I was on vacation in Argentina, I was happy with the exchange rate (it pretty much aligned to the rate on xe.com), and I didn’t have to worry about extra charges. It’s a simple product, and it makes it easy to continue operating in the US financial system while you’re abroad.
If you head to Mendoza, the park Hyatt is a steal for only 8k pts. Right on the Plaza Indipendente, the main plaza in mdz, lucky @ 1m@at did a nice Mendoza piece a while back, and as a class 2 Hyatt can’t go wrong. Also you will have to go out of the country every 3 mos as your visa is only good for 3 months.
Thanks for the tips. That’s where my side trips to Colombia and Chile come in.
A great expat resource I would suggest is Internations. Use it to connect to locals, other expats and attend events. If you are not a member, let me know. Will gladly send you an invite.
Good luck.
Thanks for the tip. If I need an invitation to join, please send me one to milevalue at gmail.
Interesting…I considered Buenos Aires but just recently decided to move to Lima in Feb 2013. So I’ve been thinking about many of the same things as you. I don’t have much advice to offer, but I 2nd the Couchsurfing recommendation.
You will have a blast! what to expect to pay…
http://paddyinba.blogspot.com/2008/11/cost-of-living-in-buenos-aires.html
Some places I ventured
http://paddyinba.blogspot.com/search/label/On%20the%20Road%20-%20Argentina
Paddy in BA
Does the BA in the blog stand for Buenos Aires or Big Apple?
Nice!
Forget about using your ATM to get your money out. Under the current circumstances in the country you could +50% more for your USDs…talk to the right people about it.
I’m Venezuelan (you’re invited to visit as well) and will actually be in Buenos Aires for a couple of weeks around NYE. If you have any requests or anything you’d like me to check out our find out, just let me know.
Come on! No Brazil? Buenos Aires is great, but you have to make a quick weekend trip to Rio de Janeiro! It’s only a 3hr, non-stop flight! 2014 will be great with the World Cup, but you have to go in a non-crazy setting first!
Hi I just recently started following your blog. I studied abroad in BA and stayed with a home stay family for 6 months from Feb. 2007 to July 2007. I opened a citicard account before I left and withdrew money from that since there was a bank right outside where I was living and a couple of other locations around town. Charles Scwabb would be a great option if you have already have that. I stayed close to the Belgrano area and really enjoyed it. I have always used the Lonely Planet books as well and those have always proved to be helpful. Feel free to email me if you have specific questions later.
No expat advice to give but maybe you should consider putting your belongings in storage since you will only be living in BA for 6 mos.
Either way good luck!
Congratulations! You’re right, you should do it now. I kind of regret not moving abroad when I was younger. The farthest I managed was moving from Tampa to Philadelphia – best decision I ever made. Not as far as you are moving, but I unloaded a lot of stuff. I was ruthless in getting rid of anything that I couldn’t make up my mind about actually needing. If you’re undecided, go ahead and get rid of it.
If you have a lot of books, donate them to the library or a books behind bars program.
Good luck!
Hey,
In July I gave away or stored all of my belongings and moved to Brasil for the next 2 years. Downsizing your life just takes time. I gave alot to Salvation Army and optioned the rest to family.
Most countries require you to have the equivalent of a SSN before you can open a bank in that country so you probably won’t be able to open a bank account in Argentina. It was about a month before I was able to get my Brasilian equivalent and open an account here.
What is something I think I need that I really don’t? – toiletries – if you are willing to downsize your life you are probably willing to use whatever shower accoutrements are avail in Buenos Aires
What’s something I think I don’t need that I really do? – CASH and access to foreign ATMs which will let you withdraw cash.
Any methods of selling or giving away to consider besides Salvation Army, craigslist, and friends?
Any other advice or something to think about that I’m not thinking about? Plan out where you can leave items as you travel whether going for a few days or a few weeks. Make sure the place you rent out is available for you to leave belongings while you travel.
I haven’t traveled to BA yet so I can’t give advice there but I would recommend joining the EXPAT group called “Internations” – if you send me your email I can invite you if you don’t already belong. You can talk with people in BA to find the best places and even schedule events with other Expats.
How would you go about getting a short term, furnished rental? – B&B. com (in euros though) can give you some idea of locations to look into – again Internations has a page just for that.
If you’ve ever been an expat, how did you tap into the local expat community? Internations – It’s been great the one in Brasilia meets once a month and then we gather in small groups as well.
Most major cities has an American School as well – that can also be a good source of English speaking people who know the city and live there.
Feel free to contact me if you want any more help but I know alot about the leaving US thing and not as much about the living in BA thing.
Boa sorte,
Meghan
Thanks, Meghan. My email address is milevalue at gmail for the Internations invitation.
There was a show on National Geographic about the scams and tourist tricks in Buenos Aires: http://natgeotv.com/uk/scam-city/videos/argentine-counterfeit-money
You really have to be careful with fake currency, corrupt taxis, pickpocketers, being ruffied in bars etc.
“Currently I’m waking up at noon” 🙂
I am from Buenos Aires. Dave’s site seems to be a great source of info for almost everything you need to know.
Just silly advice: watch out for those cute argentine women! I know a few americans (my former boss and his buddy) who lived in BS AS for a year or so and ended up marrying the locals! My boss ended up here in the US with his Argentine wife.
Just saying…
And that’s a bad thing? That sounds like a plus.
If you’re going to be there for that long, why not hop on over to Montevideo and apply for Permanent Residency? Uruguay is much easier to get PR and fast track to citizenship than almost anywhere in the world, plus they have great tax benefits for “pensionados” and you only need to show that you’re making $500 a month, with a really basic Spanish proficiency test.
There are lawyers that’ll hold your hand through the process, but if you read/speak Spanish then you should be able to complete everything for a couple hundred bucks US. Love BsAs, and would second Palermo Soho and Hollywood. Spent a month there in 2009 and it was a great area to get around.
That’s very interesting. What value would I get from being a permanent resident of Uruguay?
Congrats! Since Lima is one of your favorite places, what suggestions do you have on what to do there if you only have a day? Thank you!
I would spend the day walking the cliff parks in Miraflores. That is the most beautiful part of the city to me.
Hey Scott,
I’m an Argentinean living in California right now (kind of the opposite of what you’re doing).
As Dave said above, Palermo Soho and Palermo Hollywood are very nice neighborhoods. You probably already know them, because you said Buenos Aires is one of your 4 favorite cities 🙂
As for money, the best thing you can do right now is bring cash. The ‘official’ exchange rate is about 1 USD -> 4.7 ARS, but you can probably get 1 USD -> 6.25 ARS or something like that when using unofficial exchanges (and those are very easy to find .. your landlord will be happy to accept your USD at that rate).
I know, now miles or points when dealing with cash, but your money is worth 30% more when paying cash !
Man, I’m so jealous. Buenos Aires has been on my list for years of cities I want to live in. There was a New York Magazine article titled “A Moveable Fiesta” that made me want to move there so bad.
I haven’t been to South America (one day!), but here are some expat tips, based on living and traveling in Asia.
–Things you think you need. For me, it’s always too much clothes. Bring less and buy there, unless you’re an unusual size. I think this is more an issue for expats in Asia (where sizes are smaller) than South America.
Another is language learning materials. I always bring a lot of stuff and plan to study, then end up doing no studying. Limit yourself to 3 textbooks or less. Or better yet, have electronic versions on a thumb drive. You’re better off packing a blank notebook and using it to take notes during “language exchanges.” That’s where you help a native with their English, and you get help with Spanish.
–Things you really need: toiletries. If you’re attached to a certain kind of deodorant, shampoo, etc. then definitely pack that.
The other is photos of family. Have a few on your phone to show off. People love to see pictures of your relatives, and it helps humanize you and build rapport really fast.
–You might also want to get shots and vaccinations, just in case.
–To make friends, take group classes. Spanish, dance (tango?).
–Join some meetup groups in Buenos Aires.
–Check out expat websites to plug in to the scene there.
Hope these tips help and wish you luck!
Another vote for Palermo or Palermo _____. Don’t live in Recoleta.
I imagine if you go to the same milonga site weekly, even if you have two left feet, you’ll start to make friends quickly.
Go hiking down south in the mountains. (Go to Bariloche outside ski season.) There are national parks and trails down there in which you can get miles from no one, surrounded by only peaks and valleys.
Start adding “Che boludo” to the beginning of every question you ask of people on the street.
Ha. I definitely know all about “che boludo”
Fidelity checking is another option which reimburse ATM fees outside the country. I’ve used it in Canada, China and South Korea. Good exchange rate.
I second the cash suggestions above. Bring plenty, and invite friends over who can help you replenish your stash.
My neighborhood advice is to check out Villa Crespo. It is not as shi-shi as Palermo, but great location – near the SUBTE and easy walking to Palermo night life without the hassle and price of having to live there.
For apartments, get there first, get a hostel for a week and hit the pavement. Best would be to use a local friend to help you.
A good language school is elebaires, but I am sure you can get a private tutor for even less. The former is a nice way to meet people initially when you first arrive.
Oh yeah, the cabbies will rip you off. Count your money out loud and watch out for very fast hands 😛
Cheers!
For the accessing money abroad issue, I’d 1000% recommend Charles Schwab. Account is 100% and no ATM or FOREX fees anywhere in the world. Can’t beat it. More info for you below.
http://www.frequentflyeruniversity.com/blog/2012/7/14/weekend-rewind-how-to-avoid-foreign-transaction-atm-fees-whi.html
Congratulations on the upcoming move! I moved to Costa Rica 6 years ago and am still here (I got married and decided to stay). We actually went to Buenos Aires last November; it was my second time, and it was excellent. I’d also recommend Ushuaia (although a few days will be enough) and going to the northwest for trekking. And you’ve been to Uruguay, I guess, but we liked the area around Colonia for a nice break from BsAs.
Also, since you said you were only going to be gone 5-6 months, you may want to consider just storing your stuff in the US if you think you’ll come back (I noticed one or two comments like this here). That all depends on you and what you have, but when I left the US I had enough stuff to fill my one-room apartment. I basically just gave it all away to friends or donated it to a thrift store. However, we’re now considering moving back to the US, and it’s sort of daunting to think we’d have to get all that stuff again, either new or used. I know it’s not all “necessary” in the strictest sense of the word, but life is easier when you have stuff like a table and a mattress.
Anyhow, think about it, and enjoy your time in South America!
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So…I spent two weeks in Buenos Aires. CASH is king. You’ll get a 10% discount in most restaurants/shops if you pay cash.
The exchange rate is a clusterF. The official rate is ~4.95 pesos per dollar but on the parallel market you can now (01/18) get ~7.4. Let me illustrate this for you:
If you use a non-Argentinean credit card to buy something that cost you ~495 pesos, that would cost you ~100$…once the conversion is automatically made. But IF you pay cash with pesos bought at the ~7.4 rate…that same purchase would cost you ~63$…plus you could get a 10% discount on top of that…making it ~57$ when all it’s said and done.
Most independent shops/restaurants will offer you their own exchange rate if you’re willing to pay with USD. Right now it should be around 6-6.5, sucks…. but it’s still better than the official one. At most franchises (restaurants and hotels) you’ll be offered the official rate…
I wouldn’t advise you to each bring 9,999$ in cash (max amount without having t0 declare) mostly because you won’t even have a place to stay when you get there. However, there’s a monster loophole still available.
When you guys fly down to BsAs, see if you can schedule a quick stopover in Lima, Santiago, Colonia, Montevideo, etc. SHOCKINGLY, (casas de cambio) in those cities WILL give you the ongoing rate of +7 pesos for your dollars. I guess they sel
In any case, if you ever run out of cash, you can take a quick day-trip to Montevideo (Buquebus*) or burn 20k miles to Santiago, take out cash at the ATM and get back to work.
*Funny story. The Buquebus (and airport) duty free is all priced in USD. However, they’ll take USD, Uruguayan and Argentinian pesos…a quick trip to a casa de cambio at a mall in Montevideo and on the Buquebus I was able to shop at an unexpected, sweet 34% off.
My friend Stephanie writes a blog http://www.thetravelchica.com/ about her 1-1/2 year travel through SA. She spent many months in Buenos Aires and just released a travel guide about it. She has a ton of posts about BA along with how to prepare for leaving the US for an extended time.
Thanks for the tip.
1. Join the Hash House Harriers (a world-wide running/walking group…and a drinking club with a running problem.)
2. Take more money. Use your ATM to draw down on your US dollar account. It will cost you USD150 to enter the country, because that’s what it cost an Argentinian to enter the US.
There’s no getting around this impost.
3. US dollars on the street are worth much more than the official exchange rate of 8 -to-1.
Hi!! 😀 are u living in Buenos Aires? I’m from here and i’d like to make foreign friends who are living here!! I want to practice my English and exchange cultures! 😀 if u are interested write mee ^^ hidefromthesun-@hotmail.com
Dear Sabrina
No, I’m from Australia, but we travel to Argentina and our third visit will be in October, this year,,,we are going to (and not in this order) BA, Montevideo, Mendosa, Salta (walking in the Andes) and the Iberian wetlands…we normally stay in an apartment in Recoletta, in BA
We would be happy to correspond with you to improve your English and our Spanish…lol
An arrangement that would be ‘perfecto’.
How cool!! we can chat in Spanish if you want!! 😀 and have Skype lessons, so when you arrive you can understand more!! 😀
[…] third quarter of 2013–July 1 to September 30–was a big one for me. My six months in Argentina ended, I embarked on a 15 country world tour, and I jumped off a cliff in Dubrovnik, Croatia at […]
I happened across this post today while looking for the best way to get to Europe from BA. I am from Chicago and I have been living here in BA for the last 6 years or so. I am suer into the mile/points game/racket and I was so thrilled to see something written directly for us folks living here in BA (RE https://milevalu.wpengine.com/anatomy-of-an-award-south-america-africa-europe-and-north-america-in-biz-for-100k/ )
Im sure you have already been living here now for a while so I am sure you have already figured out most of the oddities we all love/hate about this place.
We should meet up for a beer sometime. We can talk Expat business, where to find good beer, and getting spicy foods in BA (all the normal expat stuff…)
Thanks!
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